Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
