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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.